This gingerbread-like cottage isn’t for everyone: Lovers of minimalism and restraint might blanch at the French-country accoutrements. (Doilies. So many doilies.) But submit to the flowery aesthetic and you’ll be rewarded with doting service and the kind of culinary workmanship you don’t see much anymore, unless you’re thumbing through an old Escoffier cookbook.
Even the menu style recalls the restaurants of a half century ago (Chez François, now run by Jacques Haeringer, was started by his father in 1958): The entrée prices, which hover around $80, include a complete meal with appetizer, salad, palate-cleansing sorbet, and dessert. Haeringer’s roots are in Alsace, and meats, sausages, and game are handled particularly well. In the brasserie, you’ll find less foie gras, more calves’ liver, along with a walk-in-friendly informality.
- Apple-and-Roquefort tart
- Salad with Roquefort
- Diver scallops with garlic and herb butter
- Poached lobster with crab, citrus, and Sauternes
- Choucroute garni
- Chocolate and Grand Marnier soufflés
- Baked Alaska