If you’ve been around long enough, you might remember when this was Bob’s Noodle 66, in its heyday one of the best Chinese places in the area. That 66 is still around—restarted by owner Bob Liu when he returned from a hiatus in Taiwan and moved around the corner—but this is the 66 you need to remember. Though slow to find its form, the high-volume, cash-only kitchen has been impressive of late, rendering its long list of Chinese and Taiwanese standards with a clarity and depth that most of its competitors can’t touch. The saucing is, almost without exception, clean and tight, making even a simple stir-fry—bean curd and pork, for instance, with long, thin bands of curd that have the slipperiness and chew of egg noodles, or tiny shrimp in a surprisingly balanced sweet-and-sour chili sauce—a memorable order.
Where you can find it: 305 N. Washington St., Rockville; 301-251-6652
Also good: Dry noodle with minced pork; double-cooked pork belly; salt-and-pepper pork chops.