About Thip Khao
The largest of the categories on the menu at Seng Luangrath’s Laotian restaurant is titled Let’s Go to the Jungle, and you sense the tour guide leading her wide-eyed newbies on a far-flung adventure in offering so many chili-stoked preparations of offal: You want authentic? Okay, you asked for it! To Luangrath’s credit, she hasn’t dumbed down her cuisine; the result is some of the most exciting cooking in the area at the moment—sometimes sharp (a sour soup with tamarind), sometimes smoky (tender strips of sun-dried beef), often fiery, at times all of the above.
Where you can get it: 3462 14th St., NW; 202-387-5426
Also good: Grilled pork necks; grilled salmon with curry; koi, a kind of Laotian ceviche.