If you didn’t know walking into this snug spot that the owners are from Philly, you would when you got a load of your first sandwich. No pretty-boy thing, this is a handful—two handfuls—stuffed with so much meat and cheese you’d think it was trying to make a point about generosity and love. That in itself makes the place worth knowing about, in a downtown filled with wan, gourmet-manqué sandwiches. But bigness is not all. The chef, Jon Taub—who owns the place with his folks—cares about the details, too, nowhere more so than with his brisket sandwich, the braised meat dipped in veal jus, covered with aged Gouda, then smeared with an apple-horseradish cream.
Where you can get it: 1815 M St., NW; 202-457-1111
Also good: Italian hoagie; cheesesteak; eggplant Parmesan.