Imagine a neighborhood cafe—breakfast served all day, a steady stream of customers at any hour, no-frills yet convivial. Add homey Eritrean cooking and you have Keren. The cozy, golden-hued space is a pleasant place to linger, starting in the morning when the kitchen roasts and grinds chicory coffee and turns out specialties such as eggs with silsi, a spicy tomato sauce, or ful, a hearty fava-bean mash best topped with tomato, jalapeño, and yogurt. Those familiar with Ethiopian fare won’t be lost when it comes to entrées, with dishes like fiery tibs—cubed beef fried with plenty of onion and jalapeño—best washed down with a St. George Beer. But if you need guidance, the friendly staff is eager to help.
Where you can get it: 1780 Florida Ave., NW; 202-265-5764
Also good: Keren Special (vegetarian combo with special tibs); fatta silsi (chopped bread with spicy tomato sauce).