The departure of chef Nick Stefanelli—who left to open his own venture, Masseria—has brought fresh energy and talent to Ashok Bajaj’s stylish osteria. Chef Jake Addeo arrives by way of notable Italian restaurants in New York and Hong Kong, including stops with Mario Batali and Lidia Bastianich. His kitchen shows deftness with crudos—try hamachi drizzled with fruity olive oil, preserved citrus, and pink peppercorns—and more robust dishes, such as dry-aged duck breast with Italian prunes or velvety noodles in a classic Bolognese. In a hurry? Seek out the warm-hued bar, which pours tasty cocktails mixed with Italian liqueurs and serves a pasta lunch with wine and sorbetto for $18.
Don’t miss: Crispy artichokes; arancini “carbonara”; beets with pomegranate and ricotta; seafood stew; salt-baked branzino; cornmeal cake with apples and raisins.