How does a decade-old farm-to-table restaurant still feel exciting when tavern-chic concepts abound and bone marrow feels about as edgy as a kale Caesar? It recruits fresh talent, as this Park Hyatt dining room did last year. Chef Franck Loquet and pastry chef David Collier have taken on the kitchen with vigor. The marrow—on the menu since day one—now arrives crusted with everything-bagel seasoning that complements the unctuous center, while Collier’s “Nutella breakfast” dessert transports us to a dreamy weekend morning. Talent isn’t limited to the kitchen—try the exquisite blends from the tea cellar.
Don’t miss: Braised mussels in French onion broth; acorn-squash salad; pork belly and johnnycakes; cider-braised lamb shank; kale gratin.