About Compass Rose
Rose Previte’s cozy joint is just half a block off 14th Street, but it feels like a respite. She and her waitstaff—who look imported from the set of Girls—create a friendly, cozy vibe in the elbow-to-elbow rowhouse dining room. (Recently, the back area has been tricked out with a sunset-hued Bedouin tent, where a separate Moroccan menu is served.) In the kitchen, chef Sam Molavi has tightened up a once-scatterbrained small-plates menu devoted to street snacks from around the world. He’s as deft with turning out creamy Japanese octopus fritters as he is with Colombian lamb-neck arepas. To drink, there are bracing cocktails made with obscurities like génépy, an Alpine apéritif.
Don’t miss: Boquerones; khachapuri (a flatbread with cheese, egg, and butter); Tunisian chicken skewers; Korean pork ribs; currywurst.