When it opened, it was mobbed nightly—more club, it seemed, than restaurant. Now Mike Isabella’s maiden venture has settled into life after stardom. The bad news first: It’s prone to unevenness, and the prices can get up there in a hurry. But there are more than enough thrills to make it worth seeking out. From one direction, the small-plates menu looks to be Mediterranean, from another, Italian—more specifically, Joisey Italian, an idiom that supplies many of the best moments, from a plate of chicken in pepperoni sauce to a pizza topped with provolone and fried calamari. No one would ever confuse Graffiato with a pizzeria, even a boutique one, but the pies are among the finest in the area.
Don’t miss: Charred Brussels sprouts with pancetta; pancetta with poached egg, mushrooms, and salsa verde; butternut-squash agnolotti; spinach-and-ricotta ravioli; tagliatelle with short-rib ragu; pappardelle with sausage ragu; gemelli all’amatriciana; Greek pizza; burrata-and-arugula pizza; cannoli.