It doesn’t look like a top-tier sushi restaurant—it looks, in fact, like the kind of place you drop by for takeout: seven tables, little in the way of decor. Many who patronize the place don’t choose to stick around, but here’s why you should. The service is warm and inviting, the soundtrack will remind you why you need more Thelonious Monk in your life, and the fish sparkles— quite literally: The cut surface of the chu-toro and salmon were almost gleaming. Load up on rolls if you must, but this is a place to come and appreciate the subtlety and delicacy of the various white fishes that the Japanese—including chef Minoru Ogawa—prize. The $50 omakase remains one of the most underrated dining values out there.
Don’t miss: Young crabs; uni; nigiri or sashimi of yellowtail, madai, flounder, and o-toro; Florida Roll; yellowtail-and-scallion roll.