A vegan omakase tasting is one of many signs that Washington’s oldest sushi spot has evolved and is flourishing at its Chevy Chase location. (The Glover Park original, which opened 40 years ago, has shuttered.) You’ll still find immaculate sushi and sashimi—note the specials flown in from Japan—plus chef’s tastings at the sushi bar and excellent soups such as smoked-mussel miso broth. It’s worth exploring the expanded small-plates menu. We’re fans of the yellowtail crudo with grapefruit, miso-mustard duck, and addictive popcorn-style shrimp with yuzu aïoli.
Don’t miss: Seaweed salad with creamy sesame dressing; udon tempura soup; soft-shell-crab roll with spicy sesame sauce; Jo Sushi (nine-piece daily nigiri).