Okay, so the dining room looks about as inviting as a 7-Eleven. But so what when the mole tastes this rich with nuts, chilies, and dark chocolate? The rojo for the adobo pork is nearly as good—slice off a hunk of the tender rib meat, tuck it into a nubbly, from-scratch corn tortilla, and drizzle on some of the hot sauce. The sopes, too, are made in-house—order one with braised tongue and savor the way the texture of the thick tortilla and the soft meat nearly approximate each other. Don’t be tempted by the typical Tex-Mex fare, such as tacos and enchiladas, which tend to evince less conviction than the authentically Mexican stuff that owners (and proud Puebla natives) Bernardo and Clara Vargas opened the place to showcase. If there’s a cream pastry in the case up front, grab it when you place your order—the Vargases own the bakery a couple of doors down, and the sweet might not be there when you’re ready for dessert.
Don’t miss: Tamales; costillas (ribs); posole, a pork-and-hominy soup; rice and beans.