We’ve had the luxury of tasting the evolution of José Andrés’s modernist venture each year for more than a decade—from a $65 sideshow inside long-gone Café Atlántico to the current culinary wizardry in an 18-person tasting room. So is it worth $507 a person (all-inclusive with wine)? Right now, yes. Minibar has pushed boundaries since it opened in 2003, but the experience varies depending on who’s pushing. Andrés, of course, is the marquee name, but newish head chef Josh Hermias and his team spend months formulating a single dish for the 30-odd procession. In the past, winning items often leaned on nostalgia, which wasn’t bad—we’re still dreaming of their riff on Krispy Kreme doughnuts. Yet many recent delights stake new territory while perfectly marrying science and deliciousness: Hokkaido sea urchin on buttered meringue “toast,” caviar and frosty cauliflower purée, or Thai-style rabbit with coconut “air.” Misses are rare, but one thing is certain: No one in the city—or country—is doing food like this. Very expensive.
Also great: Frozen salad; spot-prawn tartare in aloe leaf; pufferfish with citrus; truffle-stuffed capon legs; croissant ice cream.