The fireplace-accented dining room and garden veranda of this palatial Indian restaurant in Howard County are pleasant reminders that grandeur isn’t dead. Garlic-ginger jumbo shrimp and almond-crusted lamb chops are even better reminders that Indian food consists of more than heavy curries. Owners and brothers Keir and Binda Singh pride themselves on their relationships with local farms—they also operate one of their own about a mile from the restaurant—and traditional, healthy cooking techniques (tandoor ovens, less ghee, vegetables that aren’t cooked to mush). The result is contemporary, melodiously spiced food in a white-tablecloth setting fit for celebrations or a quiet visit with in-laws. Moderate.
Also great: Squash samosa; baby eggplant with tomato and yogurt; palak paneer; spicy fish curry; Kashmiri naan; mint-mango-avocado chutney.