“You can start with dessert,” offers one of Marcel’s servers while explaining the order of the prix fixe. “Anything you like.” Such is the draw of Robert Wiedmaier’s elegant French-Belgian restaurant—especially in an age of rigid tastings. Guests pick dishes from eight menu sections, all of which reveal the charms of haute cuisine—luscious soups, tender salmon en croûte, or boudin blanc showered in truffles. Pair any with French wines from the deep cellar. (Insider tip: Brunch brings half-price bottles). Four courses is an occasion, five a feast, and if you opt for seven, the staff may have to roll you into the company Mercedes. Very expensive.
Also great: Mussels gratin; duck breast with oranges; lobster ravioli; chocolate cake.