What started as a sushi spot with only a few noodle dishes has grown into one of Washington’s most alluring Thai restaurants. If you’re looking for pad Thai, don’t bother. Chef Jeeraporn Poksupthong proudly avoids the Americanized carryout staple in favor of the spicy, funky, sour flavors of her home country. Ease in with khao soi gai, a rich chicken-coconut curry with egg noodles and pickled cabbage, or the vermicelli in chili-peanut sauce with ground chicken and shrimp. The menu still advertises sushi, but the best dishes pay homage to the chef’s heritage. Inexpensive.
Also great: lotus root with grilled-shrimp salad; crispy rice cakes with chicken and shrimp; chicken stuffed in tapioca skin; northern pork curry with pickled garlic.