“I don’t do rules,” says our server when we ask how many appetizers to share. That’s fitting for independent Takoma Park and this funky bistro from restaurateur Jeff Black and chef Danny Wells. The place exudes attitude in a great way, from the bordello-meets-saloon decor to Fascist Killer cocktails laced with bourbon and Chartreuse to a menu that mixes vegan items with grilled oysters doused in garlic butter (no rules: order two portions). As at all of Black’s ventures, we gravitate toward seafood and anything from the wood grill, though the ancient-grains salad studded with pomegranate seeds and pickled shallots is worth a walk on the green side. Moderate.
Also great: Spicy mussels with pumpkin and sausage; grilled calamari with pickled peppers; po’ boy; s’mores brownie.