Situated in a Victorian-style house in a tree-lined neighborhood, Black Market Bistro exudes a rare homey vibe that doesn’t feel forced. The occasional rumble of trains from the nearby tracks is a reminder that you’ve escaped the city. The menu sways from pizzas with cracker-thin crusts to American bistro comforts. As with many of Jeff Black’s restaurants, seafood is always a wise decision. Marinated, grilled squid with a salad of olives and feta is large enough to pass for an entrée, but save room for the New Orleans–style barbecue shrimp with sweet-corn-and-scallion grits—one of the veteran restaurant’s most popular entrées. Moderate.
Also great: Cornmeal-crusted oysters; mushroom pizza; salmon with chickpea cakes; lemon-almond-ricotta cake.