Cheap Eats 2017: Dera

The welcome at this Pakistani restaurant runs as warm as the spice in much of its menu. Sampling from the $12.95 buffet is a smart strategy for a first-time visit. You can try every chicken stunner the kitchen puts out (in curry, in butter, or best yet, biryani-style), match them with channa masala, a cinnamon-studded chickpea stew, and never run out of tandoori naan. Plus, you get to finish with a lush, cardamom-infused rice pudding and any number of bite-sized fried desserts, such as jalebi, sweet and crunchy as candy. On the regular menu, herb-loaded kebabs and tender tikkas reveal a chef who has mastered his charcoal grill. Also good: Papri chaat; boneless-beef karahi.

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