Make sure to survey the small blackboard of seasonal specials—that’s where the gems are hidden. Whole fish is always featured, and if you’re lucky, you’ll find fried red snapper showered in strips of green mango and cashews. Better yet is the banana-blossom salad with shrimp and chicken. Chef/owner Songtham Pinyolaksana relied on childhood memories to recreate the spicy dish with lime, fish sauce, coconut milk, and fried shallots. Also good: Fried-watercress salad; gang hung lay, slow-cooked pork curry with ginger and tamarind.