Barley tea—hot or cold—is the first thing to greet you at this gracious, homey spot. The restaurant specializes in comforting stews and meat medleys, such as a pile of modestly spicy stir-fried pork and kimchee. Dumplings and seafood pancakes can be found on nearly every Korean menu, but here they’re more than obligatory staples. A dozen dumplings served in a steamer are fat with pork and scallions, while an extra-thick seafood pancake comes hot on a cast-iron plate, giving it nicely crisped edges. Also good: Tofu and grilled kimchee; sul leung tang, bone broth with rice and noodles.