To keep a restaurant open for 40 years is remarkable. Even more so? Continuing to draw diners from hours away to celebrate their most important occasions. The Inn is singular in that way. Chef Patrick O’Connell is more elder statesman than trendsetter these days—his “here and now” tasting menu doesn’t feel any more modern than his lineup of “enduring classics”—but what he does he does almost flawlessly. Foie gras custard with balsamic-and-raisin purée is the very definition of luxurious, and grilled rack of lamb with autumn “cassoulet” captures more meaty flavor than any chops we’ve tried all year. Meanwhile, the staff combines fine-dining formality (“For the lady . . .”) with charm and humor. In particular, people who love puns as much as piave will want to request a visit from Faira, the cow-shaped cheese cart, and Cameron Smith, the wordplay-loving fromager. Very expensive.
Also great: “Tin of sin” (caviar and crab); lamb carpaccio with Caesar-salad ice cream; pan-roasted duck breast; Wagyu beef two ways; butter-pecan-ice-cream sandwich.