Where can you find food critics on their off days? At this U-shaped seafood bar in Union Market, brought to you by the oyster-harvesting folks who have put Chesapeake bivalves on menus around the country. It’s as suited for daytime raw-bar grazing and Bloody Marys as it is for sherry cocktails followed by a proper dinner. Although it always feels easy and casual, the food—insanely tender octopus with green papaya; an artful cobia crudo—bears the mark of a seriously talented chef. Moderate.
Also great: Oysters and clams on the half shell; oyster chowder; oyster po’ boy; baked clams with Thai sausage; steamed mussels with French onion broth; peel-and-eat shrimp.