Upstairs or downstairs? It’s a tough decision. At street level, long waits lead to a buzzy counter serving the city’s best ramen. What makes the steaming bowls so special: springy noodles custom-made in Sapporo, a nuanced 16-hour stock, and wok-finished bean sprouts and ground pork to top it all off. (The vegetarian option is a worthy rival.) Overhead, a Japanese tavern serves sake, whiskey, and fun cocktails using shiso and yuzu alongside a big menu of drinking snacks. We can’t get enough of the silky egg-and-dashi custard with truffled shiitake sauce or the okonomiyaki-style pork-belly-and-Brussels-sprout skewers. Inexpensive to moderate.
Also great: Grilled avocado; enoki mushrooms with miso butter; charred baby corn; crab croquettes; mini donburi with spicy cod roe; wasabi-pea-topped soft-serve.