Don’t visit restaurateur Michael White’s waterfront trattoria if you’re counting carbs. Dishes from the Emilia-Romagna region—nicknamed the breadbasket of Italy—aren’t for slight appetites. Ubiquitous meat and cheese boards have nothing on these antipasti, with nibbles such as pistachio-mortadella spread, Parmesan “gelato,” and fresh-baked flatbreads. A wood grill tempts with steaks and seafood, but don’t skip pastas. Recent favorites include a tangle of squid-ink noodles, scallops, and chilies or wide ribbons sauced with duck-and-mushroom ragu. Expensive.
Also great: Octopus panzanella; poached egg with truffle fonduta; wood-grilled bass with chickpeas and olives; triple-chocolate mousse cake.