Chalk white and stone evoke the stark beauty of the Cycladic islands. Meanwhile, the kitchen hums along at a more refined level than many of the grandmotherly Greek spots that proliferate around Washington. Extra-silky taramasalatais sided with griddled pita that could stand alone as a nibble. Rectangles of grilled haloumi, the tangy Cypriot cheese, sit atop perfectly cooked beets. Moussaka gets a makeover with paper-thin sliced zucchini, potato, and eggplant layered with beef and finished with an elegant béchamel. Desserts are also worth paying attention to—especially bougatsa, a baked phyllo creation oozing warm custard. Expensive.
Also great: Greek salad; white beans with lemon and olive oil; kefalograviera and sesame-feta saganaki; grilled whole fish; lamb shank with orzo.