About Ruan Thai
Consistency can be a restaurant’s greatest strength—and challenge, especially with a menu of 90-plus dishes. Kudos to this Thai star, which has burned bright for 20 years. Yum salads are thrilling balancing acts—try curls of squid with lime, herbs, cashews, and dried shrimp—while house specials such as charcoal-grilled pork with chili-lime sauce are worth exploration. The airtight list yields terrific ubiquities like drunken noodles, too. Also good: Chive dumplings; catfish with red curry; watercress salad.