We’ve yet to meet a sauce coming out of chef/owner Jon Krinn’s kitchen that we didn’t want to devour. The menu changes day to day, but there’s always some emulsion, some jus, some vinaigrette that takes a roasted pork leg or seared cut of kampachi to another plane. The kitchen’s finesse also leads to pleasant surprises from dishes that may not sound all that exciting. Salmon, for example, gets a bad rap because so many restaurants cook it poorly. But here, the flesh melts like butter under a crackling skin. You’ll often see Krinn chatting up diners, particularly at the counter overlooking the kitchen. Expensive.