It’s easy to get distracted by the city’s onslaught of restaurant openings, but this rowhouse continues to stand out after more than three decades. The rustic Italian prix fixe menu starts with a flurry of antipasti, which may include arancini and veal with tuna-and-caper sauce and always features burrata dressed in olive oil. From there, diners choose a pasta (ravioli are always marvelous) and secondi (we’ve had the best luck with the meat platters for two) from an ever-changing handwritten menu. A cheese plate and a choice of desserts finish off the feast. If there’s apple pie, get it. Expensive.