This Southeast Asian restaurant has experienced its ups and downs—and chef shuffles—in recent years. Now the place finally feels on steady footing, thanks to Johanna Hellrigl, who in a prior life worked across Asia for a global organization empowering women. Hellrigl has expanded the menu’s Thai and Vietnamese scope—it now makes pit stops in Cambodia, Singapore, Sri Lanka, and beyond. One Laotian dish looks like a corn dog but is actually a split lemongrass stalk stuffed with ground pork. Meanwhile, a vegan twist on massaman curry incorporates jackfruit and purple sweet potato into its rich peanut sauce. Moderate.