Anyone who balks at the idea of a standing-only restaurant should instead consider the fun of eating in a working kitchen at Erik Bruner-Yang’s intimate tachinomiya-style venture at the Line hotel. Large-format dinners are the stars, whether a talon-to-beak chicken-yakitori tasting or whole roast duck with housemade tortillas and sauces. A few snacks, including a crunchy chicken-skin dumpling and an uni-caviar custard, steal the show. Moderate.
