José Andrés’s 30-year-old Penn Quarter tapas house still draws crowds to its swervy-curvy dining room. When it comes to the menu, a special shout-out is owed to feather-light bacalao fritters; a salad of fennel ribbons studded with walnuts and Manchego; potato-confit tortillas; and shrimp with garlic. And because vermouth has become the quaff of choice with tapas in Spain, the on-trend bar has a raft to choose from. Don’t skip dessert, particularly the spectacular olive-oil ice cream atop grapefruit granita and the chocolate custard with caramelized bread. Moderate.