100 Very Best Restaurants: – Oyster Oyster

Photograph by Rey Lopez.

Chef Rob Rubba gives vegetables star treatment at his sustainability-­minded tasting-menu restaurant in Shaw. (Eco-friendly oysters are the only protein to earn a cameo.) Here, every farmer is a friend and no scrap is wasted. Rubba pulls it off beautifully with seasonal dishes that might include summer squash spooned with a corn-chanterelle gravy or steak-like roasted lion’s-mane mushrooms with a black-garlic demi-glace. Expensive.