100 Very Best 2023Descend into this underground Thai izakaya run by brothers Andy and Billy Thammasathiti and prepare to ignite your tongue. Dishes inspired by Bangkok’s Chinatown pack flavor and fire, best quenched with Andy’s tasty mai tais. You’ll swoon (and sweat) over spicy salmon crudo; wok-tossed noodles with roasted chili jam, mushrooms, and bacon; and herbaceous duck laab. A “secret menu” reveals more treasures—you can just ask for it—as do frequent pop-ups with the smash hit Fat Nomads Supper Club. Moderate.
