100 Very Best Restaurants 2013: Bistro Bis

Like the familiar bistro dishes it turns out—often flawlessly—Jeffrey Buben’s restaurant in Capitol Hill’s Hotel George has a classy, timeless feel. The cushy booths in the golden-lit dining room attract a tony crowd: Law-firm partners woo recruits with Châteauneuf-du-Pape and escargot forestière while prep-school kids in striped ties dig politely into steak frites and pots of mussels under the approving gaze of well-coifed parents. In the era of linenless tables and cocktails in Mason jars, Bis carries the torch for a spiffier dining era—without seeming stuffy or out of style.

Don’t miss: Frisée salad with lardons; onion soup; oysters gratin Florentine; salmon with Brussels sprouts, bacon, and cranberries; beef bourguignon; apple tart.

Open: Monday through Friday for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for breakfast, brunch, and dinner.

Very expensive.

100 Very Best Restaurants 2013

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.