100 Very Best Restaurants 2014: Obelisk

Bigoli pasta with duck ragout. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

With the closure of the excellent Eola, it remains up to Obelisk to hold down the high-end culinary fort for the stretch of P Street from Dupont Circle to Georgetown. A longtime favorite for anniversaries and power meals, Peter Pastan’s 27-year-old rowhouse Italian spot continues to impress with an array of antipasti that might include house-made burrata, an ethereal wonder that’s impossible to stop eating. Pastas, too, remain exceptional. At a recent dinner, gnocchi in creamy Gorgonzola sauce tasted light and restrained despite the rich ingredients. Entrées, however, were about as exciting as the sedate dining room. We were bored by a fat-laden grilled pork chop, which felt like out-of-place overkill after such delicate but substantial early courses.

Open: Tuesday through Saturday for dinner.

Don’t Miss: The five-course menu changes daily, but highlights have included eggplant ravioli; swordfish with salsa verde; apple tart; and chocolate cake.

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