Ask your server if Bob is back and you might get a quizzical look. Maybe Bob Liu, who once presided over the excellent Bob’s Noodle 66, never really left, but there’s a juice here that was missing toward the end of his former restaurant’s run. Focus on dumplings, specifically xao long bao, which you punch a hole through to suck out the soup-like filling. Nothing on the list of “Taiwanese tapas” is as fun, but there are rewards aplenty.
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