It’s attached to a dingy-looking motel, and the dining room is only a bit bigger than a walk-in closet. But Raul Claros’s surprisingly refined interpretations of Chilean, Bolivian, and Venezuelan fare are fit for a swank downtown restaurant. Fight the urge to order a main course—the best stuff comes early, such as standard-setting arepas and fabulous black-bean and peanut soups. Finish with the virtuosic cuatro leches cake.
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