You might think it’s another suburban hole in the wall. Emma Perez begs to differ. She has real cutlery, woven placemats—and one of the best Peruvian kitchens. Begin with the tiradito, a display of raw fish atop a vivid yellow-pepper sauce. Then opt for Lima-style street fare like anticuchos (beef hearts with the richness of hanger steak) or construct a meal around the aji gallina (shredded chicken in a wine-and-egg sauce).