Make these cafes your destinations for deeply satisfying soondubu, a soft-tofu soup with beef or seafood. A five-point system determines whether the burbling broth comes “white” (chili-free) or searing, and if you want your server to crack an egg over the bowl, ask. Also excellent: the pancake studded with scallops, as big as a pizza and fried till dark brown around the edges.
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