The gracious servers smile like it’s Disneyland at this sliver of a restaurant, done up in sunset-hued paint. But don’t think they’ll baby your palate. There’s a pleasant fire to many dishes, from a lime-soaked pork salad to Sriracha-and-honey-glazed wings to a rich duck with red curry, one of many good curries. Rice dishes stand out—the ka prao fried rice, laced with basil and chilies, tastes like hawker-stall fare at its finest.
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