Duangrat’s: Best of Breakfast and Brunch 2012

This crimson-walled, chandeliered dining room doesn’t attempt—thank goodness—any Asian-fusion spins on traditional brunch fare. Instead it offers an array of Thai small plates. The trick here is balance: crispy duck with basil, fist-size Kung Pao-chicken drumsticks, and pork tonkatsu with teriyaki sauce are satisfying, but they—like much on the menu—are sweetly sauced and deep-fried. Look to Isaan-style grilled-chicken skewers and seared salmon with aromatic coconut/galangal sauce to counter those flavors. Saturday and Sunday 11 to 3.

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