This is a tiny, family-run operation, and it’s not out of the question that you’d hear, “Sorry, we are closing. Mama isn’t feeling well.” Still, it’s worth seeking out the soulful soups, arepas (corn cakes), and massive meat-and-threes that taste as if the kitchen has spent all day on them. Colombian is one of the heaviest Latin American cuisines. It takes this kind of finesse to keep you from groaning halfway through.
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