Food

100 Best Restaurants 2009: Kaz Sushi Bistro

No. 89: Kaz Sushi Bistro

Cuisine: East meets West as chef/owner Kaz Okochi pushes sushi and traditional plates to the edge. When it works, his fusion can be revelatory. When it doesn’t, you’ll long for the no-muss selections from the sushi bar.

Mood: A Zen atmosphere draws World Bankers, K Street lobbyists, and GW students to this snug restaurant.

Best for: Getting away from it all at lunch; a group gathering at dinner.

Best dishes: Velvety foie gras with plum-wine jelly; mayo-slicked seaweed salad; crispy shrimp temaki; tuna with shaved white truffle; seared scallop with lemon salt; crunchy eel with pickled radish; gingery braised short ribs; yellowtail sashimi; a boozy chocolate marquise with lemon-vodka ice cream.

Insider tips: Bento boxes at lunch are as appealing to look at as they are to eat—chicken miso and nigiri maki versions are best. The more elaborate-tasting bento at lunch is good for grazers; you get a little bit of many things.

Service: ••

Open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner. Moderate.

>> See all 100 Best Restaurants 

Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.