Food

Dairy Godmother

Marvelous Wisconsin-style frozen custard and fruit sorbets on Del Ray's main drag.

From April 2006 Dirt Cheap Eats

Door County Cherry Sundae at the Dairy Godmother. Yes, the pecan pie is dreamy, and the Tollhouse cookie rocks. But at this Wisconsin-inspired frozen-custard shop (formerly known as the Del Ray Dreamery), these specialty flavors come around once in a blue moon. The Door County Cherry Sundae ($3.75 to $4.50)–named for the Midwestern provenance of the sour cherries–is a bowl of vanilla custard cloaked in ultra-sweet marshmallow sauce, then balanced with a mess of tart, soupy cherries. Thank goodness owner Liz Davis keeps it around all the time.

Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.