Food

Dirt Cheap Eats 2008: Lebanese Butcher & Restaurant

Butcher Kheder Rababeh’s hand-boned cuts of lamb, found in raw form at the halal market, are showcased on the menu of the adjacent cafe. Grab one of the 34 seats to try shavings of leg rolled into a shawarma sandwich ($5.75) loaded with tahini, fuchsia-pickled turnips, lettuce, and tiny cornichons, or a heaping platter of feteh—braised lamb mixed with labne yogurt over crispy pita triangles ($10.75). We like to start with the soujouk ($6.45), butterflied sausages with a smoky, spicy rub, best eaten with slices of tomato. Vegetarians could make a meal of appetizers: Bowls of paprika-dusted hummus ($4.45) and baba ghanoush ($5.45) have wells of earthy olive oil. Tightly rolled grape leaves ($4.95) and lemony foul moudamas ($5.45)—a mix of fava beans, chickpeas, and garlic—make nice nibbles, too. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.