Only the top 40 restaurants were ranked in 2011's Best Restaurants list.
This boisterous neighborhood spot used to be the place for top-notch Neapolitan pizza, but other sections of the menu now outshine the pies. The best reasons to battle the kid-heavy crowds are the small-plate specials, which have included a dish of delicately fried sardines, onion rings, and lemon slices; lentils with speck; and white beans with bottarga. Desserts are also a strong suit, especially such homey sweets as almond cake with macerated cherries.
If you’re craving pizza, try the Margherita topped with tomato, mozzarella, and basil or the Vongole, a sauceless pie presented with cockles still in their shells. (Pies come uncut, but servers will happily slice them if asked.) Downstairs is an excellent place for families, the back bar is perfect for quick bites and a glass of wine, and the upstairs is best for a quieter experience.
Also good: Eggplant Parmesan; deviled eggs with parsley sauce; cauliflower with anchovy and red-pepper flakes; prosciutto-and-turnip crostini; eggplant with smoked ricotta; chocolate-hazelnut cake; sugar-dusted doughnuts on weekends; house-made ice cream, including an anything-but-boring vanilla and a seasonal caramel-pear.
Open Monday for dinner, Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner. Moderate.