Perfectly fried appetizers are a must at this minimally appointed Burmese spot. Choose nutty cubes of yellow chickpea tofu or earthy squash fritters served with a tangy tamarind sauce. A mouth-cooling shredded salad with green-tea leaf or ginger is a good prelude to a hearty chicken-and-potato curry or shrimp in a creamy coconut gravy with crunchy snow peas. Fans of Malaysian-style roti will love the just-oily-enough “thousand-layered” pancake—a tasty vehicle for soaking up those spicy sauces.
Also good: Pumpkin curry in sweet-onion gravy; cold Rangoon-style noodles; potato samosas; lentil fritters.