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Best of Logan Circle & U Street: Dining Guide
Where to go for a late-night snack, a bargain meal, or a comfort-food brunch By Ann Limpert, Kate Nerenberg
Masa 14 successfully blends Latin and Asian flavors. And it stays open late. Photograph by Matthew Worden.
Comments () | Published March 1, 2010

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Quick Bites

If you’re as enamored as we are of the chicken-liver mousse at the wine bar Cork, you can find it and other goodies to go at Cork Market & Tasting Room. The wine/gourmet-food shop is best for a spread of nibbles such as cheese, charcuterie, and oil-cured tomatoes. We haven’t had as much luck with prepared foods such as bacon-and-egg salad or fried chicken. If you’ve fallen in love with a Brunello at the bar, chances are you’ll find it here.

The improbable star of the menu at the Greek Spot, a tiny, cheap takeout, is the vegetarian gyro made with soy “steak” strips. There’s a good rendition of spanakopita, upgraded with mint. Ordered as a platter—with green beans and orzo—it makes a filling meal for less than $9.

Good Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken can be tough to find within the city limits, but one of the most satisfying versions is at Chix, an eco-conscious cafe/carryout (2019 11th St., NW; 202-234-2449). Whole birds also come in a faintly sweet house marinade or a coconut-milk/coffee Colombian blend, and sides include roasted sweet potatoes and sautéed greens.

For something a little more sinful, head to JJ’s Cheesesteaks (1939 14th St., NW; 202-518-7777). The leather chairs and polished wood floors make it seem like a four-star restaurant compared with the hole-in-the-wall counters in Philadelphia, but the signature sandwich, the Ben Franklin, comes close to one from South Street. It’s anchored by bread from the famous Amoroso’s bakery, and the meat is topped with—what else?—Cheez Whiz.

In search of a sugar fix? Swing by the DC outpost of Baltimore’s artisan gelateria Pitango (1451 P St., NW; 202-332-8877). The creamy scoops and sorbets are made with local fruits and dairy. We love the almond and crème fraîche gelati and the grapefruit sorbet, but plain chocolate and vanilla are pretty fabulous.

Around the corner is ACKC, a chocolate shop/cafe with pastries, truffles, and 14 kinds of hot chocolate, ranging from tame (the Doris Day, a mixture of milk and semisweet chocolate with whipped cream) to over the top (the Rita Hayworth, dolled up with clove, orange, and caramel).

Meals on the Cheap

Some of Washington’s best soul food comes off the trio of stoves at Oohhs & Aahhs, a storefront that turns out value-driven portions of fried chicken, macaroni and cheese, and collard greens. Starting at midnight on Friday and Saturday, the place serves chicken and waffles.

El Rinconcito Cafe (1129 11th St., NW; 202-789-4110) is as much about the food as it is about the scene: A group of regulars packs the 17 seats, the TV is tuned to soccer, and Spanish music plays in the background. Menu highlights include fried plantains with sour cream, cheese pupusas, and sweet-corn tamales.

The folks behind the Thai restaurant Rice also own DC Noodles, a similarly design-savvy spot for pan-Asian soups (we like the spicy pork with egg noodles), coconut curries, and a not-too-sweet pad Thai.

The few blocks known as Little Ethiopia are anchored by Etete, a quiet, welcoming bistro for robust lamb wats and vibrant vegetarian dishes, all scooped up with the spongy bread called injera.

Southern-Style Wakeups

In business 65 years, the Florida Avenue Grill is as much a fixture in the neighborhood as Ben’s Chili Bowl. Bleary-eyed brunch-goers vie for seats on weekend mornings, when the diner sends out heart-stopping plates of house-made biscuits smothered in sausage gravy as well as pancakes that get a splash of butter before leaving the grill. The lightest it gets is an excellent side of fried apples, swimming in a cinnamon-laced juice.

A more updated—but still rib-sticking—approach to soul food can be found at Eatonville, the extravagantly colorful dining room inspired by writer Zora Neale Hurston. There you can start your day with country-style eggs Benedict layered with buttermilk biscuits and Creole hollandaise or a more lunchy crab burger.

Brunch standby Creme takes cues from the South, too, putting forth chicken and waffles, steak and eggs, and five kinds of Benedict

Dine and Drink

Beer lovers rejoice at the date-friendly restaurant Birch & Barley and its upstairs bar, ChurchKey, where beer director Greg Engert curates a list of 555 brews, including 50 on draft. The line snaking out the door is usually for the more casual bar, where you can graze on fig-and-Gorgonzola flatbreads, shrimp-stuffed “corn dogs,” and a riff on the Hostess cupcake.

The lowlit Bar Pilar, named for Ernest Hemingway’s fishing boat, feels like a speakeasy, only with really good food. To go with the innovative cocktails, there’s a roster of small plates that change with the seasons, and they’re usually simple, flavorful, and not expensive (most run $6 to $10). A recent winter meal brought a comforting bowl of red beans and rice with pickled pork, long-cooked carrots in honey and thyme, and spicy roasted olives with goat-cheese crostini.

At the smoky-mirrored bistro Marvin, you can down blond and tripel ales over fried chicken and waffles, pork and beans, and moules frites. The reason for the Southern/Belgian split personality? Singer Marvin Gaye—for whom the place is named—grew up here but lived in Belgium for a time. After dinner, join the party on the rooftop. 


Dining Guides
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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 03/01/2010 RSS | Print | Permalink | Articles