Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.

Hidden Eats: Pupatella

Great pizza from a little red food cart.

By Todd Kliman

Anastasiya Laufenberg runs Pupatella, a tiny food cart near the Ballston Metro, and slings a mean thin-crust pizza. Photograph by Jennifer Smoose.

Think “food cart” and you think hot dogs, kebabs, pretzels—not pizza. And surely not classic Neapolitan-style pizza.

Ordering a Margherita, the three-ingredient Naples pizza, at Pupatella, the lipstick-red food cart near the Ballston Metro at Ninth and Stuart streets, I imagined I’d be served a simply sauced and topped pie on a premade crust. I was stunned to see co-owner Anastasiya Laufenberg lay a thin, hand-rolled piece of dough on a wooden paddle, then slide it into a tiny, propane-fired oven. The oven bakes the pizzas at 650 degrees—just like the best boutique spots.

The crust emerges cracker-crisp and nicely blistered, a good canvas for the San Marzano tomato sauce and first-rate toppings Laufenberg lovingly applies—creamy buffalo mozzarella, sharp prosciutto, and freshly torn basil, among others.

I suppose it’s not saying much to claim it’s the best pizza I’ve eaten on the street—it’s the only pizza I’ve eaten on the street. But I’d put Pupatella up against most of the pizzerias in the area. The pies are that good.

And they’re not all that’s good. There are also deep-fried rice balls filled with peas and veggie crumble; a sandwich of sausage and grilled onions that rivals anything you’d find in South Philly; and a fried-to-order doughnut for $2 that tastes like funnel cake and is stuffed with a variety of fillings including a luxurious dulce de leche.

 

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Posted by: NikSergeef, Sep 19, 2011 03:22:09 PM

Just don’t get on Anastasiya’s bad side - she’s like the soup episode on Seinfeld!

Posted by: haley, Jan 19, 2011 11:00:30 AM

I live a block away from them. The last 6 times I have gone out to get lunch from there on a weekday, I have only seen them open once. Their website now says they’re only open thursday/friday but last two times I went it was a thursday and they were nowhere to be seen. Very disappointed.

Posted by: Vikas, May 29, 2009 11:38:32 AM

I changed jobs so I really miss the food and the owners. You do have to check their website before you go. They’re good at posting about days off and vacation plans. I’ve stopped craving for pizza until I tasted Pupatella’s. Best of luck on your restaurant plans...I can hardly wait!!!

Posted by: BobbyNva, Apr 10, 2009 05:51:09 AM

I live in ballston and have looked for this cart at lunch time twice already on the friday’s I have off and have not found it both times...are they still out there or should I stop wasting my time during lunch time on my fridays off???

Posted by: cesar, Oct 20, 2008 08:42:38 AM

Anyone know where this cart has been all week and if they are ever coming back?

Posted by: Nova14, Oct 16, 2008 07:16:21 AM

Pupatella brought their cart to a Plone sprint in Arlington, to serve hungry coders breakfast and lunch. Freshly made doughnuts stuffed with gnutella, dulce de leche for breakfast. Excellent pizza for lunch, on par with Pizza Paradiso and Two Amy’s, and what I’ve eaten in Naples. The arancini are addictive. Very nice people too. We need more of these.

Posted by: Gastronaught, Oct 12, 2008 01:29:04 PM

Ok, I’m starting to get a little bit feisty about this cart. Twice now, today and a couple months back when Pupatella was written up elsewhere, I’ve tried to go and there has been no cart to be found. In fact, when I asked around, no one knew to what I was referring. Really, I’ve wasted too much time already. I cannot believe I tried again. This option is only available to me when (1) I have a day off work and (2) I’m actually at home in Arlington; thus, almost never.

I settled for Vapiano today, really not a bad alternative. Next time, however, I’ll probably just head straight to Vapiano...while Pupatella is conceptually a great idea, in practicality, it’s just too much trouble.

Posted by: http://dclovesfood.blogspot.com/, Oct 03, 2008 04:22:57 PM

I’d like to comment on someone else’s comment "for some reason the name of this place (or, the first 3 letters, phoenetically) doesn’t exactly whet my apetite.
but I’m sure it’s great!"

Posted by: jntg, Sep 24, 2008 12:29:14 PM

I never ever comment on things like this but I was compelled to right now! What an ignoranus you are! Not only are you ignorant and closed minded but you can’t spell! I see what you’re getting at when you mention that the first 3 letters of the food stand are p-u-p. You’re obviously not cultured and I hope you never try that pizza or anything that doesn’t "whet your appetite!" You don’t deserve it! Stick with white bread and mac and cheese. I think those kinds of foods are more suited for the likes of you!

Posted by: blvsbux, Sep 25, 2008 06:38:34 AM

for some reason the name of this place (or, the first 3 letters, phoenetically) doesn’t exactly whet my apetite.
but I’m sure it’s great!

Posted by: jntg, Sep 24, 2008 12:29:14 PM

It is only open 8:30 - 4:30 M-F. They have a website if you google them and it says if they will be open (sometimes they close on rainy days). Margarita pizzas are $6, $9 if you want buffalo mozz. Definitely one of the best pizzas in town.

Posted by: Nova14, Sep 24, 2008 11:35:30 AM

what are their hours? I live in ballston and get home around 630pm...are they a lunch spot or do they stay late or around on the weeknds?

Posted by: cesar, Sep 24, 2008 08:20:26 AM

Pupatella sounds like a tasty pit stop! Would be awsome if there were one on K Street. The lunch crowd would swoon....

What are price points for pizza, etc?

Posted by: Cathy, Sep 24, 2008 08:17:41 AM

THIS PLACE IS THE BEST THING IN BALLSTON!

Posted by: nino, Sep 24, 2008 07:23:34 AM